Remnants of the Roman empire are visible across Jordan. But outside the ruins in Amman and Jerash, how many others do you know about?
Inside Amman, a large Roman amphitheater sits at the heart of the old city and remains a gathering place for young people, families, and tourists alike. Farther north, the sprawling ruins of Jerash stretch about a mile long in length, from Hadrian’s Arch in the south, past the hippodrome where chariots raced, and through a dizzying network of temples, theaters, homes and colonnaded streets.
But beyond Amman and Jerash lies so much more…
The ruins of Umm Qais
Famous for the black iris which blooms here in the Spring, Umm Qais almost rivals Jerash in its size and scope. Both ruins are part of the Roman Decapolis, a regional network of ten cities including Amman, Qanawat (Canatha) in present-day Syria, and others.
As you wander through Umm Qais, you can gaze across the Jordan Valley to the Golan Heights and the Sea of Galilee. Or pause for a delicious meal at the restaurant perched right amongst the ruins. For an added surprise, walk the road west from the main plaza until you find the mausoleum underground to your left. Climb down the steps and through the thick stone door to glimpse where the sarcophagi once lay.
The ruins of Pella
Southwest of Umm Qais, the ruins of Pella sit along the slopes of a narrow valley near Tabaqet Fahl. Also one of the ten Decapolis cities, Pella is unusual due to its hilly terrain. Come enjoy a picnic amidst the ruins, as many locals do. Or climb high for stunning views from above, especially in the Spring when the tall pillars rise out of the lush green fields in the background.
Other features include an Ottoman mosque and a small plaque commemorating the Battle of Fahl which took place here in 635AD, an early encounter between the Muslim and Byzantine armies.
Note that all these sites, selected here for their Roman remains, also have a rich history before and after Roman times. Pella goes back to the Neolithic Era, for instance. And Roman temples there and elsewhere became Byzantine churches and Umayyad and Ottoman mosques in later periods.
The ruins of Umm al-Jimal
An hour and a half drive Northeast of Amman, Umm al-Jimal is notable for its dark stone walls built from local igneous rock. As a Roman military outpost, its features included a small fort, a large reservoir and other fortifications. The city expanded in the Byzantine era before an earthquake in 749 AD and a subsequent decline.
Visitors today can spot the remains of over 150 different structures. A well-maintained museum also documents the history and cultures of the site. In the museum’s large courtyard, a garden of stone blocks highlights the diverse and multilingual inscriptions carved at Umm Jimal throughout the ages, including several pieces with Greek and Arabic texts side by side.
Have you visited these sites or are there other Roman ruins in Jordan that you would recommend? What would you like to see next on this blog? What less known places or things should we discuss next? Send me a note or leave a comment below.
October 27, 2021 at 10:07 pm
Very interesting! I would love to visit.
October 29, 2021 at 5:56 pm
Thanks Somer! Yes, Jordan is an incredible country with lots to see – not just these ruins, but also Petra, the Dead Sea, the beaches in Aqaba, and many places for hiking.
October 29, 2021 at 1:38 am
The pillars in the Roman ruins are great examples of the style of the empire . Interesting how the history is layered there.
October 29, 2021 at 6:02 pm
Thanks Brian! I agree, the layered history is fascinating. Romans, Byzantines, Ottomans, etc. In eastern Jordan, some ancient forts were even used through the First World War and beyond.
September 14, 2023 at 7:09 am
Wow I loved your expression on the Roman ruins in Jordan – Umm Qais. I am so mesmerised by the ruins. I am Abu doing bachelor of IT from the University of Wollongong in Dubai. https://www.uowdubai.ac.ae/degrees/bachelors/information-technology. I am working on planning a visit to Umm Qais in November. Will it be too cold at that time?Your article is a fabulous read.
September 19, 2023 at 1:52 pm
I’m glad you enjoyed the piece on Roman ruins in Jordan! Umm Qais is incredible and definitely worth a visit. November would be a great time to explore the area. Temperatures around Umm Qais are quite pleasant then, usually around 60-75 F (15-24 C).