Stories about Coptic sites in Egypt often focus on Cairo or the stunning landscape of St. Catherine’s in the Sinai. The tightly packed neighborhood of “Coptic Cairo” features historic churches and cemeteries, and the rich collections of the Coptic museum. In the eastern Sinai, St. Catherine’s Monastery is a remote World Heritage Site that also rewards visitors with gorgeous views of the sunrise.
But closer to Cairo lie four Coptic monasteries equally brilliant in their history and religious significance. Let’s journey there now, to Wadi al-Natrun, an easy day trip from the vibrant chaos of downtown Cairo.
Thank you to Mark Voss for the excellent recommendation that led to this post. Voss runs the full service, concierge travel company Antique Lands Travel that specializes in travel planning and privately led excursions to the Middle East, North Africa, and Mediterranean. Mark has over 20 years’ experience of traveling and working in the Middle East, and taught Middle Eastern history, humanities, and religion at the University of Arizona for seven years. His mission is to connect his clients to the people and cultures of these amazing destinations and to create one-of-a-kind travel experiences that both educate and transform.
St. Macarius Monastery
Wadi al-Natrun lies about 60 miles from Cairo on the road to Alexandria. Once home to many monasteries, only four exist in this area today: the Coptic monasteries of St. Macarius, St. Bishoy, the Syrians, and Paromeos.
The first on our list is the Monastery of Saint Macarius or Dair Abu Maqar. Macarius came to Wadi al-Natrun in the mid-4th century, building his own monastic cell and slowly attracting other followers. They soon established a monastery on the site, and it has been continuously inhabited ever since. The Monastery of Saint Macarius is particularly significant because the majority of Coptic popes were monks here. In addition, relics found here in 1979 were attributed to John the Baptist and the Prophet Elisha. These bones remain on display today.
St. Bishoy Monastery
A short drive northwest is the Monastery of Saint Bishoy (Dair al-Anba Bishoy). This Coptic compound includes a modern cathedral, as well as a fortified keep, monastic cells and a number of smaller churches. St. Bishoy’s tomb rests inside the monastery and is a popular site for worshippers. The body of Coptic Pope Shenouda III (died 2012) also lies here.
Inside these churches, elaborate paintings of religious icons decorate the walls and the wooden panels by the altar. Moreover, in 2018, researchers made a startling find, uncovering previously undiscovered murals underneath the layers of mortar.
The Syrian Monastery
Next on our list is the Syrian Monastery (Dair al-Suryan), also known as the Monastery of Saint Mary Deipara. Until recently, we believed that Copts built the site, before Syrian monks bought it in the 6th century. We thought the Copts took the monastery back in the 1500s, residing there since.
However, thanks to careful restoration and the discovery of multiple layers of frescos, we now know that the truth is more complicated. As this article explains, Syrians did not buy the monastery, but lived in harmony together with the Copts. And the “new” murals now under restoration are incredible, like the picture above.
The Paromeos Monastery
Last on our list is the Paromeos Monastery (Baramos in Arabic). This name comes from Pa-Romeos or “that of the Romans,” probably referring to the Roman saints Maximus and Domitius, who died here in the 4th century. St. Macarius founded Paromeos however. In fact, he did so before establishing the monastery that bears his name, thus making Paromeos the first monastery in the area.
This monastery’s Church of the Holy Virgin is the oldest church in Wadi al-Natrun. Like the other Coptic monasteries mentioned above, it features exceptional frescoes from the Middle Ages. But these murals are unique in that they trace the stages of Jesus’ life, showing the Annunciation, the Nativity, Christ’s entry into Jerusalem, and more.
What Next?
Join our discussion — have you visited these Coptic monasteries or would you like to go? Have you ever been to Egypt? There is so much to learn about Coptic history, and how it weaves in and out of broader Egyptian history. Let us know what you think about these monasteries. Which was your favorite and why?
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